I'm going to need to start a new category on this blog just to keep all these entries straight.
VERY interesting developments happening with the Are They or Aren't They Too Thin arena.
Today's New York Times has a very interesting article titled When is Thin Too Thin? And it points some fingers at interesting places.
First it quotes Linda Wells, Ed in Chief of Allure magazine saying that during some of the New York fashion shows last week, there were audible gasps from the audience as they saw just how gaunt some of the models were.
"What becomes alarming is when you see bones and start counting ribs," Wells told the Times.
Yep, that's alarming all right. Almost as alarming as the effect these images could have on the thousands of young women who look at the shows and think "Gee. If I could just look like that, maybe someone would put ME on the runway in New York...and dress me in fabulous clothes...and I'd get to go to all the best parties and hang out with the beautiful people. Because that's what models do. And it's not like if I try to become a teacher or a computer programmer I'll get all the glamour, fame and fortune. Hell, I don't even KNOW any female computer programmers... so *sigh* I wonder if I could get that thin and have a shot......"
My point being: YES, I agree that it's worrisome that top models look this way... and I think the impact they can have culturally is even more worrisome.
Then the article goes on to say that there "remains an ideal among designers who seem to prize an ever thinner frame to display their clothes." Ahh. so the problem is with the designers? (could be! See part 2 of this entry below!)
But wait, there's more! Then a modeling agent named David Bonnouvrier, the
chief executive of DNA Models, which represents many of the top faces
in the business, is quoted as saying: “We are minutes away from a catastrophe."
!!
He also points fingers at " designers and
model bookers [who] encourage extreme thinness, so much so that
several of the models he represents, when asked about their weight,
have refused to seek medical attention for what are probable eating
disorders."
“This goes against everything we stand for as an industry,” Mr.
Bonnouvrier told the Times. “I am kicking and screaming about it now because this
should be an industry of beauty and luxury, not famished-looking people
that look pale and sick.”
KICKING AND SCREAMING, eh? Well, I like that fact that he realizes that gaunt and emaciated doesn't portray a look of beauty and luxury.... but the flip side of that is of course, that the image he might be calling for (one that is beautiful and luxurious) might not be any more realistic or attainable.
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Meanwhile, over in London, Mr. Giogio Armani has penned an editorial that's run in the Independent. The full text is below because apparently they have some cursed firewall/subscription policy:
"Ever since I started out as a fashion designer, I chose to use
models who were on the slender side. This was because the clothes I
design and the sort of fabrics I use need to hang correctly on the
body. I want the dresses to seem to float and flow with the body.
Gianni Versace was a very different kind of designer. He used
jerseys and chiffons, which needed a body of a certain shape to hold
the fabric. He used more voluptuous models. The particular styles I
designed were quite different, and this is why, maybe, I was regarded
as being among those designers who used slim women as models.
But I do not feel responsible for setting a trend towards models who
look anorexic. As so often in the fashion world, things have been taken
to extremes. And unfortunately there are a lot of young women who never
accept that they are thin enough - and this is an illness.
In my view, all women want to look much slimmer than they are, and
this encourages them to be very careful about what they eat. But there
is a similar issue at the other end of the scale: there are very few
women who have just the right degree of voluptuousness to be pin-ups.
Most of the comment on this issue of anorexic models - like comment
on anything - tends to exaggerate the problem. But the fact that we are
dealing with the world of fashion, where so much is exaggerated anyway,
means there has been a particular lack of balance in this discussion."
********
okay. G, darling... here's what I have to say to YOU:
1. "In my view, all women want to look much slimmer than they are..." WTF?! I mean, I know you're a genius with fabric theory, not social theory... but um, could like maybe back up that assertion, or dig a little deeper? Cause "your view" begs the question of WHY "all women" want to look much slimmer than they are. Do you think it's genetic? That we're born that way? That we come out of the womb and immediately start thinking "hmmm, I gotta cut back and be careful about what I'm eating cause I'd like to be slimmer than I am." Because if that's your assertion, I would beg to differ. I'd like to throw in some wild cards, like say, oh, cultural influences. Just to mix things up a bit.
2. " And unfortunately there are a lot of young women who never
accept that they are thin enough - and this is an illness." Y'know, I'm glad you brought this up. Because I've been a-wonderin' myself jes what in the hell is WRONG with all these girls. You sickos. Get with the program and realize that you just might not ever be like the women that Giorgio favors. You just might not HAVE the type of body that lets clothes drape correctly. You might actually have flesh, or enjoy eating, or play sports that develop your muscles. Just deal with it. And buy yerself some Versace or something. But whatever you do, just accept that you've got issues. You're ill. And that's no one's fault but your own, mm'kay?
3. "Most of the comment on this issue of anorexic models - like comment
on anything - tends to exaggerate the problem..." Riiiiiigghhht. So you're saying that it's not useful or productive to debate such issues because it just makes a mountain out of a molehill? That we should just sit back and accept whatever is thrown our way cause designers (or creators of other cultural "products" ie magazines, films, music videos etc) know what they're doing when it comes to choosing fabrics that sit well on the body (or achieve the image they want.). So we're supposed to blindly consume these items and images without raising a stink? I don't THINK so.
4. And finally Giorgio. NO. Just no. To all your other points. They are poorly reasoned and I no longer think of you as the Italian Calvin Klein who makes elegant, simple clothes. When the time comes for me to buy clothes as nice as yours... for my appearance on Oprah, or the Red Carpet or the Kick-Ass Cultural Critics Award Show of Life... I will not be buying from you.