(via my good friend, Ran, who probably never realized he was going to be so dialed into these strains of pop culture when we took our Freshman Seminar together at College)
Last week, we solicited your questions for John Caplan
, the president of Ford Models. Amidst all the
Fashion Week furor, he took the time to answer.
Q: Have models truly gotten smaller over the past,
let's say, 30 years? Is it a result of demands from designers, editors,
and/or advertisers, or did it start with the kinds of models that
scouts have been signing?
A: I really believe that designers, editors, and
the entertainment industry drive the body image ideal. We develop and
manage models that are healthy, and should our models develop any
health problems, we work with the models to solve them. If we sign
models that clients don't want, then they don't work; so our incentive
is to find talent that meets the criteria of our clients.
Q: Recently, we've seen the practice of importing
models from places in Latin America and Eastern Europe. Many are very
young, come from impoverished countries and face reported threats of
exploitation. Does your agency employ the practice of importing such
models? If so, what safeguards do you have in place to protect their
rights as workers?
A: The reality is that living conditions in some
third world countries are awful. We try to recruit great models and
give them the opportunity to develop careers. Later, when they become
successful, many of them work to improve the living conditions for
their families back home. As for protecting their rights, we are very
vigilant about ensuring that our models are paid by and work for
reputable clients.
Q: Why do Ford and other agencies put commercial
interests above the health of teenage models? Why encourage a fifteen
year-old girl to diet down to a size zero when, as an adult, you know
that such behavior is unhealthy, even dangerous? Do you think that
adults should take some responsibility for the choices made by kids,
and that it is irresponsible to encourage teenage models to over-diet?
A: Parents, teachers, agents, and clients all share
responsibility for the health and well-being of models, particularly
those that are underage. Ford doesn't ever encourage models to "diet
down to size zero." That's just not how Ford works.
Q: As a freelance Web designer/developer, I'm
curious what role personal Web sites play in the careers of upcoming
models and actors. Would you say such sites are necessary for aspiring
models? Do they make things easier for industry professionals such
yourself? How would you advise models asking you about the value of a
personal site?
A: The Internet has become an important marketing
tool for the talent we represent. We have a big group on staff
dedicated to developing these tools. Web video casting and personal
profile pages help clients across the globe get comfortable with
talent, and allows them cast virtually. Our TV destination
and distribution relationships with YouTube, MySpace, iVillage, and
Verizon, among others, help to market our talent. In fact, a number of
advertisers have seen our videos and then sought content and talent
sponsorship agreements.
Q: There is a branch in psychology that studies the
appreciation of beauty. Researchers have developed quantitative
measures, such as length of nose relative to width of chin. My question
is twofold: a) Does your agency systematically follow that research? b)
Do you use such measurements to estimate an applicants potential in the
market, or do you rely on your feelings and experience?
A: We rely on the experience of our scouts, talent
managers and clients to develop the new faces we represent. In my
opinion, beauty that is defined exclusively by metrics is like a
painting that is created to appeal to the broadest market: dull.
Q: How would you rank criteria such as facial features, body shape, poise and hair when choosing a model, regardless of designer?
A: Designers and their casting agents make
selections for talent based upon overall look, attitude, movement and
personality. They are seeking talent that helps to bring to life the
vision and creativity of their collections.
Q: Has the recent surge in reality shows about modeling and the fashion industry (i.e. America's Next Top Model, Project Runway, etc.) affected the quality or quantity of your models or applicants?
A: The shows are purely entertainment and produced
with that in mind. They haven't had any impact on the quality of the
talent we represent, nor have the shows developed or discovered stars.
We do see thousands of people applying every day to us via our Web site. An aspiring model knows that, if he or she is signed to Ford, he or she is more likely to work in the industry.
Q: Do you think the rise in popularity of "candid," "real-life" fashion Web sites such as
The Sartorialist and
Facehunter will affect what constitutes a model in terms of appearance?
A: I think they are terrific Web sites and that
they offer really interesting ways to observe the means in which
individual style is created every day. They have no impact on talent
selection, though.
Q: I'm a 24-year-old model based in Toronto right
now. Most models' careers seem to peak at a much younger age. Have I
missed the boat, or there still a chance to have a successful modeling
career? Secondly, do you think there will be a "return of the
supermodel," or will most models always remain anonymous, nameless
faces?
A: Generally models begin their careers when they
are 16 to 20 years old. You can always apply at our Web site, and one
of our scouts will review your materials.
As for your second question, I do believe that society is getting
tired of the unpredictable behavior of celebrities, and therefore
supermodels will return.
Q: How did you become involved in the modeling
industry, and what are you suggestions for getting started as a booker,
agent, etc., in the industry at a young age?
A: I joined Ford after working on the team that built About.com.
I was ultimately president of the About Network (which is now owned by
The New York Times Company). To get a job and start at Ford, we have a
terrific intern program in each of our offices, and bookers frequently
get their start assisting in one of the divisions.
Q: What percent of non-models in the industry
(management, etc.) used to be models themselves? What do models usually
do when they retire?
A: Very few models become agents. Many move on to
entertainment and acting, while others go on to production, design, and
photography.
Q: In your opinion, how did Ford rise to the top of
the market (and stay there for decades) despite the heavy competition
and fast-paced industry trends?
A: Culturally, we're focused on innovation, client
and talent service, and teamwork. In addition, the breadth and depth of
the talent we represent, our global geography, the introduction of
integrated service offerings, our proprietary technology, our branding,
and our reputation have all contributed to our consistent results over
the past six decades. Most importantly, we represent the right talent,
and employ the best managers in the industry.
Q: Would you encourage your own daughter (or son) to become a model?
A: Yes, if she wants to. She's only two right now, so she's got some time to grow before she's ready.
Q: Can a moderately fit, six-foot-tall economist
with slightly above-average looks and slightly above-average body hair
make it as a model? Just curious.
A: Anything is possible.
News reports abound today about Miss England being told she should gain some weight before the big contest... which surprised her since she's not, apparently, "rail thin."
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